Fresh Summer Peach Ice Cream

Makes about 1 quart

Both the cooked peaches and the custard mixture must be cooled to 40 degrees before you churn them. Since they are fine in the refrigerator overnight, you may want to prepare them the day before you plan to churn and serve the ice cream. You'll get the very best results from using in-season, fully ripened peaches, but in a pinch, you can substitute 2 cups IQF (individually quick frozen) sliced peaches and replace the vodka with peach-flavored liqueur (alcohol ensures the fruit's tenderness). The ice cream is at its peak when eaten within four hours of churning, although covered, it will keep in the freezer for up to two days.

3 medium-size ripe peaches, peeled, pitted, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 2 cups)
1/2 teaspoon juice from 1 lemon
Pinch salt
1 cup plus 6 tablespoons sugar
1 1/4 cups whole milk
1 1/3 cups heavy cream
6 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons vodka

1. Stir peaches, lemon juice, a pinch salt, and 1/2 cup sugar in medium-size nonreactive saucepan to combine; let stand until a pool of syrupy liquid accumulates and peaches soften slightly, 1 to 1-1/2 hours.

2. Position sieve over medium bowl set in an ice-water bath; set aside. Heat milk, cream, and 1/2 cup sugar in medium-size heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until steam appears, 5 to 6 minutes. Turn off heat.
Meanwhile, whisk yolks and remaining 6 tablespoons sugar in medium bowl until pale yellow. Stir half the warmed milk mixture into beaten yolk mixture until just blended. Return milk-yolk mixture to saucepan with remaining warmed milk mixture. Heat milk-yolk mixture over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with wooden spoon, until steam appears, foam subsides, and mixture just begins
to thicken or instant-read thermometer registers 180 degrees. (During the early stages of cooking, there is a thin layer of foam on top of the custard. When the steam begins to rise from the custard and the foam has almost totally subsided, it is near 180 degrees. The mixture must not boil or the eggs will curdle.) Remove custard from heat, and pour it through fine-mesh sieve into bowl placed over
ice-water bath. Cool custard mixture to room temperature, stir in vanilla, then cover and refrigerate until instant-read thermometer registers 40 degrees, at least 2 and up to 24 hours.

3. Meanwhile, heat softened peaches and their liquid, stirring occasionally, over medium-high heat, until peaches are tender and flesh has broken down, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to bowl, stir in vodka, and refrigerate until cold, at least 4 and up to 24 hours.

4. Strain chilled peaches, reserving liquid. Stir reserved peach liquid into chilled custard mixture; pour into ice cream machine canister and churn, following manufacturer's instructions, until mixture is frozen and resembles soft-serve ice cream, 25 to 30 minutes. Add peaches; continue to churn until combined, about 30 seconds longer. Transfer ice cream to airtight container. Freeze until firm, about 2 hours.

LEANER FRESH PEACH ICE CREAM

Makes about 1 quart

Follow recipe for Fresh Peach Ice Cream, increasing number of peaches to 4, decreasing sugar to 1 cup, increasing whole milk to 1 1/2 cups, and decreasing heavy cream to 1/4 cup, eggs yolks to 4, and vodka to 1 1/2 tablespoons. Each time a sugar addition is called for, add 1/3 cup.

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